The great debate over which cheese belongs on a Philadelphia cheesesteak

The debate over which cheese belongs on a Philadelphia cheesesteak is among the most enduring and contentious discussions in the city’s culinary history. Rooted in the mid-20th century, the cheesesteak—a sandwich of thinly sliced beef, onions, and cheese—has become a symbol of Philadelphia’s identity. Yet, the question of whether to use provolone, American cheese, or even a combination of both remains a subject of fierce debate among locals and visitors alike. This article explores the origins of the cheesesteak, its cultural significance, economic impact, and its role as a defining feature of Philadelphia’s food scene.

History

The origins of the cheesesteak trace back to the 1930s, when hot dog vendor Pat Olivieri began serving thinly sliced beef on a roll to workers at the Pennsylvania Railroad’s 30th Street Station. According to Cheesesteak, Olivieri’s son, Pat “Patsy” Olivieri, later expanded the concept by adding cheese to the sandwich, a move that would become central to its evolution. However, the specific choice of cheese has been a point of contention since the 1940s, with early versions of the sandwich reportedly using provolone, a cheese favored by Italian-American immigrants in the city. By the 1950s, the sandwich had gained popularity, and restaurants such as Randy’s and Tony Luke’s began to formalize their own interpretations, with some opting for provolone and others for American cheese.

The debate over cheese types intensified in the 1980s and 1990s as the cheesesteak became a staple of Philadelphia’s food culture. A 2015 article in Philly.com noted that the city’s most famous cheesesteak purveyors, including Geno’s Steaks and Pat’s King of Steaks, have long maintained that provolone is the only acceptable cheese for the sandwich. However, the rise of fast-food chains and national chains like Subway and Wendy’s introduced variations that used American cheese, sparking controversy among traditionalists. The debate has since become a focal point of Philadelphia’s culinary heritage, with local historians and chefs often citing the 1980s as a pivotal era when the cheese choice became a defining characteristic of the sandwich.

Culture

The cheesesteak is more than just a food item; it is a cultural touchstone that reflects Philadelphia’s identity and the city’s complex relationship with tradition and innovation. The debate over cheese has become a microcosm of broader cultural discussions about authenticity, regional pride, and the influence of outside forces on local traditions. According to Philly Mag, many Philadelphians view the use of provolone as a non-negotiable aspect of the cheesesteak, arguing that the cheese’s melting properties and flavor profile are essential to the sandwich’s texture and taste. Others, however, contend that American cheese offers a more consistent melt and a creamier mouthfeel, making it a preferred choice for those who prioritize practicality over tradition.

This cultural divide has manifested in various ways, from informal discussions among diners to organized events such as the annual Cheesesteak Festival in Center City. The festival, which began in 2008, features competitions where chefs and restaurants showcase their cheesesteak recipes, with judges often debating the merits of different cheese types. A 2020 article in WHYY highlighted how the festival has become a platform for both purists and innovators to express their views, with some participants even experimenting with hybrid cheeses or unconventional toppings. The debate has also influenced the city’s media, with local newspapers and television stations frequently covering the topic, further embedding it into Philadelphia’s cultural fabric.

Economy

The cheesesteak industry has had a significant economic impact on Philadelphia, contributing to the city’s food tourism sector and supporting numerous small businesses. According to Philly.gov, the cheesesteak is among the most popular items on the menus of local restaurants, with estimates suggesting that the city’s cheesesteak-related businesses generate millions of dollars annually. This economic contribution is particularly notable in neighborhoods such as South Philadelphia, where historic cheesesteak establishments like Pat’s King of Steaks and Geno’s Steaks have become landmarks that attract both locals and tourists.

The debate over cheese has also influenced the city’s food economy by fostering competition and innovation among cheesesteak vendors. A 2021 report by Philly Mag noted that the insistence on using provolone has led to a thriving market for high-quality Italian cheeses in Philadelphia, with local dairy suppliers and importers benefiting from the demand. At the same time, the presence of American cheese on menus at some restaurants has created opportunities for fast-casual chains and national brands to enter the market, further diversifying the city’s food landscape. This economic dynamic underscores the cheesesteak’s role as a driver of both traditional and modern culinary enterprises in Philadelphia.

Attractions

Philadelphia’s cheesesteak culture has made the sandwich a key attraction for visitors, with numerous restaurants and food tours committed to showcasing the city’s best cheesesteak offerings. Philly.com reports that cheesesteak-themed tours, such as those offered by Philly Food Tours, have become increasingly popular, allowing tourists to sample the sandwich at iconic locations like Pat’s King of Steaks and Geno’s Steaks. These tours often include discussions about the history of the cheesesteak and the ongoing debate over cheese types, providing visitors with a deeper understanding of the sandwich’s significance.

In addition to food tours, the city has incorporated cheesesteak-related attractions into its broader tourism strategy. Philly.gov highlights the inclusion of cheesesteak vendors in the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s gift shop and the Independence Visitor Center, where visitors can purchase cheesesteak-themed merchandise. The city’s efforts to promote the cheesesteak as a cultural icon have also led to the creation of Cheesesteak Festival-inspired events, which draw thousands of attendees each year. These attractions not only celebrate the cheesesteak but also reinforce its role as a defining feature of Philadelphia’s identity.